Trekking...

Don't know which is more tiring, hiking through the Himalayas eight hours a day for 22 days, or sitting in seat 39G on a short haul flight from Kathmandu to Dhaka...

There's something about travelling for 24 hours straight with no sleep that really punches you in the gut... really knocks the wind out of you... that, and losing your luggage part way home. Can't believe I actually made it to Vancouver, it's really nice to be home. Got back from Nepal on Friday morning (thanks for the pickup, J/L) after 3 flights, 4 stops, and travelling pretty much halfway around the world.

And if you must know, I headed straight for the YVR Tim Horton's and followed it up with a breakfast of blueberry pancakes... mmm...

I eventually ended up staying three nights in Lukla, unable to fly out due to foggy conditions. We were lucky, there are stories of some trekkers who are stranded for up to 2 weeks. The ticketing system there doesn't account for bad weather (a bit too optimistic, I think). If your flight is cancelled, you can apply for a ticket the next day, but you are automatically bumped back to the last flights of the day. And the later flights are notorious for getting cancelled due to weather...

With fog delaying two days worth of flights, our porters actually ended up walking back to Jiri, they figured there was no way they were getting back in the same week. A lot of them had to get back to their families, so they hiked back... all the way to our starting point... took them 3 nights (it took us 7 days)... poor souls. At least they had no luggage to carry... Unfortunately, in Nepal, the tourists generally get first priority... with everything.

I never did describe the airport in Lukla... did I mention it's super, super tiny? Nothing like 500 people crammed into a room the size of a two bedroom apartment. At 450m, the runway is one of the shortest used for commercial service. It's on an incline, rising 60m from the bottom to the top, helping the planes stop before crashing into the mountainside. On takeoff, the planes just rev their engines at full speed, pull up the brake and just head down the runway as fast as they can (there's a 700m drop at the end of the runway)... fascinating to watch, despite my anxiety about getting home... really something to behold...

In the end, I did make it back to Kathmandu safe and sound. The final day was a bit of a whirlwind... (I was just happy to have gotten out of the fog hole that is Lukla...) I said goodbye to Tim, who was flying to Bali and the beach; Jason, who was flying back to Calgary and the snow; and Liz/Amanda, who were flying out to Chitwan National Park to ride elephants and visit tigers... very jealous of the first and third people...

Elsie, Ramesh, Angela (who left us on Day 12 by helicopter - flight cost:$15000!) and I had dinner at a quaint Japanese restaurant in Thamel (no worries, no raw sushi). Actually, the food was amazing, despite the blackout halfway through the meal...

I said goodbye to the three of them and then headed off for some ice cream and coffee (cost:$1) and some free wi-fi... gosh, it's nice to be back in Kathmandu...

Then I was delivered to the airport by Ramesh's people where I took one final picture... (picture #3593 of trip)...

Got home a couple of days ago...

It's funny, while on the trail, freezing in Pheriche and squatting over outhouse holes, all you think about is what you really miss from home. We decided (actually Amanda and I) that the first thing we'd do when we got home was to hang out in our (luxurious) bathrooms for several hours eating Snickers and Pringles (cause we can). We'd take an extremely, extremely, extremely long, hot, shower... pretty much until all the hot water in North Vancouver was gone (sorry, DNV). Then we'd sit on the toilet (that we sit on), and flush it fifty times (cause it does) and throw wads of toilet paper down it (again, cause we can and because it doesn't cost $3 a roll)...

However, in reality, I got home, stripped off my dirty clothes, collapsed on my bed and fell asleep for 18 hours. I slept outside of a sleeping bag for the first time in 40 nights and, believe me, you couldn't have woken me with a sledgehammer covered in daal bhat and mixed fried rice.

Think I may have come down with something actually. Perhaps not quite swine flu, but I've got a real doozy of a cough. Maybe those asian surgical masks may not look so silly after all...

The flights home actually went rather smoothly. Except that I was stopped in Tokyo (after stops in Dhaka and Hong Kong) by a gentleman holding a sign with my name. I felt extremely important for about 10 seconds until he explained that Cathay Pacific had lost my luggage somewhere between HK and Narita. They weren't too pleased when I told them that I did not live in Japan and that my backpack somehow needed to end up in Vancouver. After sorting it out with the Cathay Pacific guy, I went on to be interrogated and strip-searched (very, very, uncomfortably, closely) by the Japanese immigration official.

"But I'm just in transit..."

Anyways, I finally received my luggage today (Sunday). The Cathay Pacific people apparently received my bag in Tokyo, gave it to the JAL people to fly it back to Vancouver, who gave it back to the CP people to deliver it to Jamie's mom, who eventually handed it off to me... easy.

Now that it's here, I've got crap-loads of laundry (in Kathmandu, I could have had it done for 50 rupees, or 75 cents, a kilogram). Gosh, I already miss Nepal.

I have to go back to work tomorrow and I think it'll be difficult to describe how incredible the trip's been. Words just never seem to wholly capture or convey the experience. I went to see the Himalayas and came back having been allowed so much more. For me, the most memorable and meaningful moments involved crowding around a farmhouse cooking fire, taking photos and sharing laughs with the local children. It really was moving to experience the generosity of the people, wherever we went.

They say once is never enough when it comes to travelling to Nepal and I can believe it. So many visitors I met along the trail were on their third, fourth, fifth treks... They said they were drawn not just to the mountains, or the incredible scenery, but mainly to the people of Nepal and the warm spirit and earnestness in which they live their lives. Like coming home...

It's been a great journey, a real trip of a lifetime. Thanks, Elsie and Ramesh. Had a wonderful experience. Thanks again to everyone who supported the cause and thanks for all the comments and emails, hopefully I'll see everyone soon.

Off to have a shower...

Saw my first vacuum cleaner in Nepal today, here at the beautiful Samsara Hotel in Kathmandu... I've only ever seen people sweeping carpet... with sticks...

I'm so tired.

Roller-coaster and traumatic really don't begin to describe the last 3 days. After spending the entire day in the faux Starbucks in Lukla, I subsequently spent the entire next day in the icebox known as Lukla airport. Waiting for a plane that would never come...

We were scheduled for a 10:45 am flight yesterday... We got to the airport at 10 am, below beautiful blue skies. No problems...

At about 4:00 pm, after a crazy day in the terminal (I'll describe it later, no time now), we were called onto the tarmac. Apparently our plane was headed our way and we were going home. Yay...

Oh no...

Apparently, halfway to Lukla, they deemed the weather too foggy again and the plane turned back to Kathmandu. Noooo....

We'd been there 6 hours already and they sent us home to our lodge for another night of crib and staring at each other. Craziness...

Anyways, Ramesh rebooked me, Tim and Jason on a flight this morning. All three of us have flights to other countries today. We were squeezed onto a charter flight that the big group of Germans had organized for 6:30 am...

Finally got to Kathmandu about 9 am, after an agonizing wait to see if planes were flying today. The flight home was a bit bumpy, just under 30 minutes long. Kinda diminishes the feeling of accomplishment that we felt after 7 days on the trail from Jiri...

Went crazy doing some last minute shopping and I'm coming home now, with a bit of a head cold... I'll report and post some more pictures when I get back. Just happy to be able to fly tonight... can't wait to see everyone...

Living in Vancouver, I should be used to unreliable weather, but in Nepal? It's been absolutely amazing this last month, and all of a sudden, it's gone to potty... I'm stranded in the town of Lukla. There's too much fog, so planes can't land or take off. I think the last attempt in fog resulted in 18 Germans getting killed... No thank you...

Anyways, I'm here, at the fake Starbucks, taking advantage of their free wifi and $4 coffees... Some posts from the last few days...

When I last left off, we'd just got back from Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp...

Day 20

Staying another night in Namche. Our hotel is the Sherpa Village Lodge, small, but cozy. Finally took a shower after a week of wearing hats... Very clean now.

Namche is a really cool town, there's a market on Saturdays where people from the surrounding areas bring their wares to sell. Mostly produce, eggs, rice, vegetables, consumer goods, chocolate, chips, and all the supplies for the different lodges. It was very cool, but I'm pretty sure I paid way too much for my Coconut Crunchies... again I was severely hampered by my inability to speak Nepali and by my complete lack of negotiating skills... Bought some Pringles, pizza flavor. Funny, I hardly eat them at home, but I just had to have them. I think I might be missing Vancouver a little bit...

Bumped into Rajendra 2 in the market. He bought a couple of live chickens for lunch and dinner. I thought he was joking when he was negotiating for the birds, but a few minutes later, he proudly walked out of the market with two roosters squirming under his arm. 'Circle of life' kinda stuff...

We actually had a real rest day today. Absolutely fantastic. Namche's a pretty cool town with a bunch of bakeries and cafes. I spent the entire day just walking around, checking out the local market and shops. I spent a good portion of the day in a bookstore and then in a cafe, reading. The first real rest day in about twenty days... My quads are very thankful. Absolutely my idea of a perfect rest day. No hiking... At all... None... Not a step...

Actually spent a bit of time on my own. There's nothing like walking, eating, sleeping with six other people for twenty one days to really appreciate a few hours of alone time. Not that it hasn't been great. I couldn't ask for a group of nicer people...

Yesterday's hike was a killer, we covered a lot of ground. It's hard to say how many kilometers we've covered in the last three weeks. Everything is measured in hours and not distance. And Nepali time is very different from normal time. These people are super human... I think sometimes the estimated distances on some of the sign boards are actually a cruel joke by some bored Nepali sign makers.

Btw, I'm actually out of money now, I have to get to a bank. Although, it keeps me from spending too much money... I'll save that for Katmandu.

It's amazing, wherever you go in Nepal, someone is always trying to sell you knockoff outdoor gear. Everything here is North Face. Jackets, bags, fanny packs, shirts, sweaters, you name it, they'll put a North Face logo on it and sell it to you. There's also fake Arcteryx, Mammut, Outdoor Research, and every other gear company you could think of... I'd buy something, but I'm afraid it might dissolve in the rain or unravel on my next overnighter... I did find some authentic gear, but I had no money... Thank goodness...

Day 21

Arrived in the town of Phakding today. We are going to stay here tonight and then off to Lukla in the morning. Finally able to do some laundry, it's pretty much the first proper wash my clothes have had in about three weeks... though, I guess there isn't really much of a point now.

They say in Nepal, you either have diarrhea, or are about to have diarrhea... lovely, I know. We've all had bouts of it, off and on, and it's something all of us have to struggle with. But I tell ya, when you feel healthy, gosh, it feels good. Can't wait to get home and just feel normal again...

Day 22

More baked goods... Dancing Germans....

Spent the day in a brand new town, Lukla. It's the main entry point for trekkers heading to base camp and the only airport for miles around. It's decidedly busier here and the facilities are fantastic. We had an attached toilet to our room, toilet paper, and running water. Reminded me of a ski lodge.

We arrived quite early, so we did a bakery circuit, seeking out all the bakeries and coffee shops in a twenty minute radius. They even have a Starbucks... Or a fake one with a suspiciously similar looking sign...I had three cups of coffee and a black forest cake.... Free WIFI as well...

Had to take money out at the bank in Lukla. As soon as I stepped onto the bank, I was followed by five security guards and interrogated as if I was taking out a mortgage or life insurance. The back manager kept asking me about Canada and about getting a student visa. I think he wanted me to sponsor him or something. Didn't stick around to find out.

We had a big party last night. It's the last day of the trek and time to thank or guides and porters. Buffet dinner with popcorn, yak jerky, and dhal. Lots of Everest beer to wash it down. I'm really going to miss our porters and guides. The porters are absolutely incredible. They're all about 120 lbs and carry close to their body weight in luggage. All from a strap across their forehead. They never complain, always eat last and are the happiest bunch of guys I've had the pleasure to be around. I spent a lot of time walking with them because they are so much fun... They get to return to their families now that the trekking season's coming to an end. Real heroes.

We had a lovely ceremony, with speeches... And then the dancing began... They have quite the set up in this lodge. Nothing like whooping it up with a bunch of happy Germans and Nepali porters. Everything from Indian pop to Nepali folk songs. I'm talking Whistler and Apex booty shaking. We made it all the way to 9:30 pm... would have made the Marauders proud...

Heading back to Katmandu tomorrow... Shower, clean clothes, meat...

At least I was supposed to be back in Kathmandu today... I'm sitting in a rattan Starbucks chair, surrounded by rattan walls (I feel like I'm in the Bahamas) updating the blog. I just had a flat white (espresso with milk), they have drinks here like long black, mountain supreme, and mango tea... Sort of Starbucks'y...

Hopefully, tomorrow it'll clear up enough to fly out. I'm hoping they'll crank up the music again tonight and we can have another Nepali/German dance off. Honestly, there's really very little else to do besides endless games of crib and general staring at each other...

Fingers crossed...

PS... Shameless plug... I'm sorry, I have no choice... It's coming up and I'm on the other side of the world... My hockey team's having their annual fundraiser at The Great Bear Pub in Burnaby again this year. Saturday, November 28th at 7 pm. $10 for a burger and a beer. Silent auction, door prizes, tonnes of fun. Everyone's invited. Please come... It'd be great to see everyone... Yes, I'm on it, even from Nepal...

We did it!

We made it all the way to Everest base camp to celebrate Elsie's birthday. It was quite the moment, something that I was quite proud to be a part of.

How'd we get there? The following are my diary entries for the last week...

Day 12

Today we are staying in the town of Tenboche...

We gained an extra guide today, Rajendra Number 2 or R2 (there are 2 Rajendra's). Ramesh uses him to run ahead of the group and reserve a lodge at the next town. This is a busy time of year so it's extremely important that we reserve early to ensure lodging. He's definitely got the looks of a Bollywood star... don't know if he can dance and sing...

We also had a casualty today, Angela had to be flown back to Katmandu. (Cost of helicopter... $15000 US... holy shmoly...) She wasn't feeling well yesterday and today she got about an hour into the trek and could not continue on. She felt that she would be better off being taken back to the city. It's unfortunate after coming all this way...

Left Namche early today and arrived at the town of Tenboche, the famous monastery. Tenboche is a beautiful town surrounded on all sides by incredible peaks.

There is a lovely monastery here, full of monks. We visited and asked that they open up the main hall for a private viewing. Padma and I were lucky enough to meet a very friendly monk, Pasang, who took us around the halls. We promised to return on the way back. He gave us a lucky red string that would give us protection and we exchanged email addresses. It's mind-boggling, they've got great access to the Internet.

Tengboche has a bakery that is absolutely amazing, by the way. It's incredible, the things that you miss and the price you are willing to pay for them after being away for only a few weeks. Tim almost had a heart attack when he saw the pastries on the counter, literally fell on his knees and bowed down to the cakes. We sampled the "wacky crazy" cake... chocolate with more chocolate icing. I thought I'd died and gone to baked goods heaven. $4 a slice, but worth every rupee. Tenboche will now be known as Bakery Town. Next time, I think I'll have the chocolate cake... incredible white icing with ribbons of chocolate... mmm... baked goods...

I've found an untapped niche. If I ever move to Nepal, I'm going to find the highest hill and put a bakery on the top of it. Easy money. Retirement, here I come...

Day 13

Staying at the town of Pheriche. It's a small town in a valley on the north side of Ama Dablan. That's the mountain Dean is scaling. The walking is now above the tree line and the landscape has now become decidedly barren. It's quite a contrast from the earlier walks through rododendron forests and pines. The wind is definitely blowing stronger and the temperature has dropped considerably.

Actually, it's cold, very cold. Someone turned down the temperature. No one told me that leaving wet laundry out in the cold would mean frozen clothing... My shorts and dry fit shirt were like pieces of cardboard when I finally remembered they were outside. I think I could really have done some damage with my brick socks... Frozen solid... Luckily a few hours in front of the yak dung fire thawed them right out.

Yak dung, quite the efficient heat source and way less stinky than you might think...

Day 14

Staying another night in the town of Pheriche. We took a "relaxing" "rest day" hike to about 5000 m today. It was quite a slog up the hill, it's amazing how much the altitude affects you as you climb. It was one step at a time near the top, with each breath a real struggle. It'll be interesting to see what it'll be like up at basecamp.

The views from our acclimitization hike were absolutely spectacular. Some of the highest peaks in the world at all angles. Definitely one of the most spectacular days so far.

What is it about "rest" days that we feel we need to go for some
horrifically strenuous hike in order to pass the time. I need to recover from my rest day...

Day 15

Staying in Lobuche today, a little "town", or shack-ville, the second last town before we head up to Gorak Shep and Kala Pattar. Lobuche is very small, only about five or six guest houses. I think we definitely scored the best place in town, as usual. Having Ramesh as a guide definitely has it's advantages...

It was a hard day this morning, after the 'rest' day hike yesterday. Tim chalked it up to the Monday morning blues, a carry-over from our Canadian office lives. Our legs were crazy tired.

The hike to higher altitude is meant to help us acclimitize. We go up during the day and sleep at a lower altitude in order to help our bodies adjust. God, it's hard though. Can't wait to breathe the oxygen rich air back at home. I'll get so much done... clean the house, do my taxes, learn Spanish...

Couldn't sleep at all yesterday as well. There's nothing like staring at the wall for nine hours straight, trying to figure out why I can't sleep...

You know, I am an eating monster. I don't think I've ever had this much food in my life. We're hiking everyday, so I don't feel so bad. It'll be hard to get back to my routine, if it wasn't for the hiking, I'd be about seven billion pounds.

Day 16

Here's my original note for the day...

"Reached Gorak Shep today. Yay. Washed with ice chips today. Saw the most incredible views from kala pattar today. Amazing. Have not slept in three nights...."

I was very tired... and grumpy...

There are incredible views and then there are INCREDIBLE views. The hike to Kala Pattar was one of the most strenuous of my life. There's something about being above 5000 m that literally sucks the wind out of you. It's like hiking really slowly, I mean really slowly, and heaving like you're sprinting up the hill. Crazy.

Reached the highest point that I will probably reach in my life... 5545 m at the top of Kala Pattar, a hill above Gorak Shep. I think I'll get "5545 m" tattooed on my forehead...

The top of the hill has the best views of Everest, I think, in the world, save maybe the summit. Standing on the very peak was a little dicey, with sheer drops on all sides. But the views, the views were incredible. Five of the ten highest peaks in the world right before your eyes. Something that I will never forget...

Day 17

Finally made it to base camp today. It was touch and go there for a bit, but we made it. Elsie is a real inspiration.

We had cake at base camp, and took a billion photos. It was truly a memorable moment, I won't ever forget it.

Basecamp really was an incredible experience... The culmination of 17 days of trekking and weeks of prep and anticipation. Elsie is a real trooper. She could have given up at any point along the way, many people would have, but she was determined to make it there. And she did. It was one of the coolest birthday celebrations I've ever been a part of... Chocalate cake, noisy horns, dangerous sparklers, Mickey Mouse hats, Britney Spears streamers... all at the base of the highest mountain in the world... good times.

The walk there followed the edge of the Khumbu glacier, an incredibly enormous flow of ice extending from the base of Everest to the town of Gorak Shep. It took us over two hours to walk the entire way. The last bit required us to cross over top of the glacier which meant walking on ice. Cool.

Next time, I think I'll bring my skates, I'm pretty sure I saw the highest ice rink on the world, a beautiful turquoise pond set in the glacier... perfect stick and puck size...

By the way, if you ever want to give a present to someone on trek in Nepal, I recommend chocolate, nuts, Pringles and toilet paper... They are a real hit. Fortunately, quite shareable as well (even the toilet paper). And chocolate always tastes so much better at altitude.

Everything needs to be carried up, so anything processed is that much more expensive. In Katmandu, toilet paper is 10 rupees a roll. In Gorak Shep, it's 200 a roll, almost three dollars. The exact same goes for a litre of mineral water. Chocolate bars are four dollars, totally reasonable after twenty days on the trail... Btw, if you're ever in Nepal, every guesthouse bar carries Nepali beer, whisky, Twix, Snickers, Mars, and Bounty bars, Pringles, Fanta and toilet paper... anything else, you'll have to bring with you.

Day 18

Staying tonight in Pheriche again. On the way down now after finally reaching base camp. Started to cloud over today and even snowed a bit. Feel bad for the folks heading up. The weather up until now has been absolutely fantastic.

I think Pheriche is the coldest town in Nepal, btw. Everytime we get here, its absolutely freezing.

AMS, or acute mountain sickness, is funny. At least being at altitude is. One of the effects of altitude is restless sleep... and gas...

Real AMS involves more serious symptoms like vomiting, hallucinations and pulmonary or cerebral edema. I
don't have that yet.

My main problem was the sleeping. I was finally able to sleep last night after going four nights with absolutely none. I actually got up to go to the bathroom because I was bored. It's strange, everytime I closed my eyes, all I could think about was my breathing, or my inability to catch a proper breadth. Almost like suffocating in your bed... very claustrophobic...

I had to step outside a couple of times to catch some air. I eventually had to return to my room when I realized it was kind of creepy of me to be walking about in the dark with my headlamp...

I did solve the problem though, with Diamox, my new favorite drug (move over ciprofloxacin). It's a wonder drug. It makes your hands and face tingle, and it makes you pee four times a night, but it absolutely helps you to sleep. Half a pill in the morning and half at night and you're good to go. Don't know why I didn't start it earlier...

Day 19

Finally arrived back in the town of Namche. We made it to Everest like we set out to do over two and a half weeks ago.

We traveled a good eight hours today to reach Namche from Pheriche. It was a really hike, down and up and down again...

Can't wait for a real rest day tomorrow... Going to visit the famous Saturday bazar Namche... Maybe pick up a case lot of Coconut Crunchies, my favorite new cookie...

That's it for now... we have another day in Namche, and then back to Phakding and then Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu. I'll write again from Kathmandu, the internet is much less expensive there (here it's 10 rupees a minute)...

Hope everyone's well. Miss everybody dearly. Talk to you soon...

Yes, I am still alive and kicking... If anyone is wondering, internet access is few and far between in the Nepali countryside...

I was looking over my photos and I noticed that there aren't any for October 24th. That was the day before my last post...

Flashing back now, I remember it was an awful day... woke up in a stupor, barely saw the famous sunrise in Nagarkot (cracked the window open a bit, but was repulsed by the light), and then slept all the way back to Kathmandu on the public bus, my feet resting on a sack of potatoes. The bus driver flagged down a taxi for me at the last stop. Unfortunately, the driver didn't know where my hotel was, so he dropped me off in front of the Kathmandu Guesthouse where I promptly collapsed on the doorstep. Thank goodness there's always someone offering a ride, a hotel, or a tour in Nepal. Four men approached me about their hotels before a rickshaw driver swept me up and pulled me to my hotel, the Samsara. It's one of the most luxurious hotels in the city (free buffet breakfast). I must have looked like a ghost when I arrived. Nearly spent the whole day in bed...

In Namche now... Feeling much better... So nice to be able to eat again...

I've been keeping track of my progress throughout the last 10 days. Here are my journal entries...

Day 0 October 25th Kathmandu

There's nothing like a bout of gastroenteritis to really make you appreciate feeling normal. Just spent the last couple of days on death's door, or so it felt like. Don't know if it was a pastry (with whipped cream, what was I thinking?) I had in Boudhanath or a jug of milk tea I had earlier, but I can't think of Buddhism or milk tea without flashbacks of late night vomiting and diarrhea. I've decided to blame all white foods, anything white really, they just make me feel ill. Just starting to recover now, but I haven't eaten anything in a couple of days...

Did you know you can buy antibiotics at the corner store just down the street in Nepal? Cost: Approximately $1.75 for ten ciprofloxacin pills. Thank goodness for Elsie, she's taken care of me since yesterday. Could barely stand up when I arrived at my hotel.

By the way, rehydration salts are nasty.

Day 1

Off on our journey now. Starting off with another eight hour bus ride today. It seems every town is an eight hour bus ride away... Feeling a bit better today, just a bit tired from the lack of food.

Arrived at the town of Jiri today. It's the first town on the trek to Everest for us. A majority of people skip the initial part of the trek by flying directly to the town of Lukla before walking to Everest, but we have decided to rock it old school, which adds about a week to the trek. Hoping it will allow a bit more contact with the locals...

Staying in the Hotel Gauri Himal in Jiri tonight, considered to be the best hotel in the city (attached toilets!).

Had a dinner of egg noodle soup that took about two hours to prepare. Actually keeping down solid foods, pretty stoked about that. Still trying to figure out this whole tea trekking as a group thing... think we are all supposed to try ordering the same meals, so it arrives faster. Six fried rice with egg and veggies, please.

It really does take getting really sick to understand how wonderful it is to be healthy. You really take for granted all the times you are on the trail without a care in the world. Right now I feel like I can go either way. Like I can explode at any moment... Lovely, I know.

The characters on my trip are interesting. There's Angela from Calgary who's never done anything like this before... ever. And then there's Padma from Indonesia, who's in the same boat. Liz and her daughter, Amanda, are from Sidney, on Vancouver Island. And then there's Elsie, our 74 year old organizer, an amazing woman with endless energy. Ramesh is our Ecological Tours guide who is always joking around. And we have porters to carry our gear, all with different English ability. We have all been thrown together for this incredible journey, it should be interesting...

Day 2

Arrived just outside of the town of Shivalaya for lunch today. We started out from Jiri at about 7:30 this morning. (our bags have to be ready and packed by 7 am). After climbing up and up and up for a while, we finally started to go down and down and down... killer on the knees.

We arrived at the town of Shivaraya at about 1 pm where we sat down to a plate of dal bhat for lunch. I am loving the dal bhat, it's on every menu. It's the official dish of Nepal and it's quite tasty, reminds me of every home cooked meal I had growing up. Usually it's lentil soup over rice with vegetables and maybe a curry. The people of Nepal apparently have it every day and, depending on where you stay and who cooks it, it can be quite different one day to the next.

There was a group from France who appeared to be following us for most of the way. They were camping the whole way. This means extra porters and people to carry WAY more stuff. The way that our trek works is that we have one guide, and there is one porter between two people. The guide guides. And the porters carry all the stuff... and these guys weigh about 120 lbs and carry about 30 kgs each. It's amazing, and probably kinda unhealthy...

This guided tour thing is strange, you get to a lodge and the trekkers are the always the first ones fed and all their needs are taken care of. I feel like royalty. It's like luxury trekking at a bargain basement price.

Anyways, we continued on past Shivalaya, our initially intended location, and headed further along the trail. Unfortunately, we underestimated the time it would take to get to the next town and we ended up part way to our destination. We just couldn't make it to the end. Bad knees and leg cramps did us in.

So the group just decided to crash at someone's house. It was awesome. I don't know how the family felt about 11 people arriving on their doorstep, but it was one of the best experiences of my life. We got to hang out in the kitchen with the family, around the wood fire, as the mother made dinner and tea. One of our porters is an expert with chickens so we bought one of their birds (live) and had an incredible chicken curry.

The people were wonderful, so hospitable. We left with very warm feelings. It's been a great start to the trip...

Day 3

Today we are staying at the Sherpa Guesthouse in Kensi. We started out from just before Derauli, where we stayed at the home of the lovely farming family.

The Sherpa Guesthouse is very nice. A bit of a step up from the farmhouse (although that was fun). The dinner was dal bhat again. Loving the dal bhat (I think I may have to check out that Kathmandu Cafe on Commercial when I get back). Had a 'hot shower' (or a thermos of hot water and a bucket). At least I smell a bit better...

We walked up to the town of Derauli for lunch. I had a steaming plate of potato momos, dumplings not unlike gyozas. Absolutely fantastic.

We met a Dutch woman traveling to Gokyo on her own, it's an area just west of Everest (my next trip, I think). She joined us for lunch. She's teaching at an English school in Pokhara, at a school for underprivilidged kids.

The walk today was up, and then straight down. I think this may be our routine for the next few days... The final leg followed a beautiful turquoise river running briskly alongside stunning farms and colourful fields.

At dinner we meet a couple from the UK. They are off to basecamp then Gokyo as well. Kinda jealous. Definitely next time for me.

Tomorrow apparently is straight up. I hope the group is going to be okay...

Day 4

Today we traveled to the town of Goyem after a very long day of climbing up and up. We stopped again at a village house, it was getting dark and we needed a place to stay. It was a farmhouse nestled on a hillside with just the most incredible view of the Langtang mountains. The sunset over the valley down below was breathtaking. This small farming family lives in absolute heaven. Stunning, stunning views.

I have to say, I love being allowed into people's homes. It really gives you a sense of how the people live out here. It's been a wonderful experience.

The mother made dal bhat again and Suri (our porter) 'processed' another two chickens. They certainly do know how to spice up their chicken in Nepal. Btw, it was 2000R for two chickens (about $28 US).

Had lunch in the lovely town of Sete. Dal bhat again...

Day 5

Staying tonight in the town of Jumbesi. Lovely town that reminds me of Switzerland, only smaller with buddhist stupas...

Left the small home this morning just before Goyem and headed up over our highest pass so far, the Lumjira pass at 3340m. Had lunch with airplanes roaring past our heads. Could have touched their wingtips, I think.

Met a couple of Germans going the other way. They did Gokyo, and are heading back towards Jiri. They say the views ahead are stunning... I cannot wait.

Staying at the massive Apple Garden Lodge tonight. It is absolutely stunning, with a western toilet... Ramesh really does spoil us... I may even have a shower, er, bucket...

Day 6

Stayed at the town of Nuntala tonight. It's at the bottom of a steep, steep hill, after a long, long climb up from Jumbesi.

Met some folks from Alaska over lunch. They drive buses in Denali National Park. You know, there are so many places to see in this world... So little time...

By the way, saw Everest for the first time today, it was amazing. Woohoo. It was just a small peak on the horizon, but it's what I came to see and it really was an incredible moment. Cannot wait to see it up close...

Day 7

Today we're staying in the town of Bupsa, just on the top of one of our many passes. Getting around Nepal means meeting a lot of goats and mountain passes...

First Elsie treated a boy who was bit by a dog on the back of his leg...

Gosh, Nepali kids are tough.

Then the porters played hopscotch with some local kids...

We had lunch in the town of Khilagiri. It was a leisurely one, about two and a half hours. Our group is split a bit into two hiking groups and we stretch out about an hour apart. We usually meet up at lunch, which means long, long lunches with about 15 cups of hot lemon tea (no dehydration issues here). I had mixed fried rice again (my favorite). It came with shredded yak cheese on top. Nice, but unexpected touch. I think it'll be lunch pretty much from now on. There's just too much choice every day. It's like eating at a restaurant for every meal. With the same crazy menu (think a blend of western, Asian, Nepali, Italian, with a touch of Greek and Swiss mixed in). And i think dinner will be dal bhat, it's the staple here, so it's always done well. For breakfast, porridge, maybe with apples... Just to make it easier...

This has been a pretty amazing trip so far. There are always a few ups and downs (mostly dealing with snoring roommates) but in the end I can only make the trip what it is, and it's been pretty cool.

Day 8

Staying tonight in the town of Sarkey (or Sarke), just below the Lukla airport. For the last 7 days we've watched overhead as dozens of daily flights head from Kathmandu to Lukla. Can't imagine how many people are up there...

Had a Swiss Rosti for breakfast today. The menus in Nepal are fantastic, you get everything from popcorn soup to corn flacks to cheeseomlet double to potato cheeps to musili or musli (muesli) to buff meat momos (buffalo filled dumplings) to tuna and veggie pizza. Figured i'd try the Swiss part of the menu...

The rosti (or roasty or rosty or rosi) was actually pretty tasty (though a tad rich), think a garlic mashed potato patty, deep fried in soya oil. I don't think i could do it everyday, I'd have a heart attack before the trip was over. I think I'll go back to oat porridge from now on...

Every day starts at the same time, around 6 am. Our bags need to be packed and at the door by seven. Breakfast, which we've ordered the night before, is at 7 am. Usually porridge and black tea... it's easy. It's hard to know what I'll want in the morning.

You know, I thought I'd die without my coffee (my Tim's Large, two creams) but it's been fine. I can have coffee everyday if I want to, but everyone has tea here so I've been having the same. Besides it always comes with too much milk, hot drinks here are either black or all milk (milk tea or milk coffee). Lactose intolerance doesn't work in Nepal...

And I think might come back with diabetes with the amount of sugar I've been consuming (they like their tea sweet here)...

Day 9

Today we have finally met the throngs of people that they've been warning us about. It's a bit of a shock to the system to be surrounded by SO many other people. There were days in the countryside where you didn't see another trekker for miles and miles.

Tonight we are staying in Phakding, a town just after Lukla. Lukla is the main airport into which a majority of trekkers fly into. They go from there to trek to Everest and other areas. The number of tourists and trekkers is astounding. As much as I'm dying to see the mountains, I kinda miss the good ol' days.

Met Justin and Tim today, additional members of our group. Justin is Elsie's grandson, from Calgary, and Tim is his buddy from Vancouver. Tomorrow we climb to Namche, which is supposed to be the 'Kathmandu of the Sky'... I'm looking forward to a Snickers bar and getting some laundry done...

Day 10

Have finally made it!

After climbing a brutal hill for three hours, full of dust, yak trains (Padma just survived a yak goring incident) and trekker trains. We've finally reached the famous town of Namche. It's been an absolute dream of mine to come here and see Everest. The city itself is more amazing than I could have possibly imagined. It's a set of homes and guest houses nestled on an incredible mountainside, in the shadow of some of the tallest peaks in the entire world. Snow covered mountains surround the colourful town on all sides and the city bustles with climbers, trekkers and merchants. It's a real dream come true for me....

And one of the best dal bhats I've had since arriving, here at the Everest Lodge. There's a rumor of some bakeries in the city, so I have to checkout a chocolate cake or two tomorrow...

Day 11

Finally able to update my blog...

The count so far: 9 lodges, 2 farmhouses, 2 showers, no laundry, 4 'processed' chickens, 3 sock changes, and a countryside completely raided of ketchup, hot sauce, and cane sugar... those poor Nepalis...

Today is our rest day in Namche. It's important to spend a day at this height in order to acclimitize to the altitude. Every day people are air lifted out of the area (cost $6000) due to altitude sickness. So far, so good for our group. It helped that most of us have been on the road for a few days...

By the way, when I get home, I'm going to run up the Grouse Grind. Just to see... I think I might be in best shape of my life right now, and all that oxygen rich air down there... It's a fantastic, albeit expensive way, to shed two minutes off my Grind Time...

Namche is fantastic, one of the prettiest towns on our trek so far. As part of our acclimitization regimen, we had to climb up a bit, then come back down to sleep. Took a day trip to the Everest View Hotel, the highest 5 star hotel in the world (hand it to the Japanese to fill a niche). Saw amazing views of Everest and the surrounding peaks. Quite breathtaking.

Tomorrow we head towards Tenboche, and then Pheriche. Everest Base Camp comes a couple of days after that. We are celebrating Elsie's birthday on Nov 11th and they've promised us cake and balloons. Woohoo! I will take lots of pictures and post again when I get back to Namche on the 14th or 15th. Thanks to everyone who supported the cause, it's been a great experience so far. If anyone else still wants to donate to the kids at Kanti Children's Hospital, you can at medicalmercycanada.org (just mention Kanti Children's Hospital in your pledge).

Talk to you when I come down the mountain...

There's nothing like a bout of gastroenteritis to really drop you on your butt. I don't know what I ate, but I have not eaten anything in the last two days. Food poisoning, in the worst way... I'm hoping these antibiotics they've given me will kick in soon. Did you know you can buy antibiotics at the local corner store? A set of 10 for about $1.75. Amazing.

Anyways, it's hard to remember what I did prior to getting sick and I've been sleeping for the last couple of days, everything has that pale film of nausea about it.

I'm pretty sure I returned to Kathmandu and stayed at the Boudhanath temple area. I wrote this while I was there, when I felt normal:

You know, I just realized that there are no traffic lights in Kathmandu. Not one, that I saw anyway. Honestly, I know I tend to talk a lot about traffic (it's really not why I came to Nepal) but it amazes me that I have not yet been run down in the streets. I've ridden on the top of a bus, been on the back of a motorcycle (helmet-less, twice) and been crammed into a jeep with 15 other people, and it's only my first week. On the bus ride back from Pokhara, we did so many high speed passes, I could have reached out and slapped the person on the bus next to me about a dozen times.

Really, it's been quite a ride.

I'm back now in Kathmandu, a day earlier than I had planned so I had to scramble for a place to stay. I could have stayed anywhere in the city, but I decided on Boudhanath. It's the Buddhist stupa far, far away from the crazy tourist district. You just walk into the area and immediately a sense of calm just envelopes you. Unfortunately, you're only supposed to walk around it clockwise, so finding and comparing hotels means walking round and round in only one direction for about two hours (it's about the size of a round hockey rink).

The place is really something. I know many might question some faith, but there really is something quite spiritual about being in there. People come from all over the world to walk in circles around the stupa. Young, old, woman, children. There's nothing like a teenager ripping through the crowds on a motorcycle (in the wrong direction), jumping off his bike and then turning around to offer a prayer before joining his friends for a drink. A woman walks all the way around the stupa, completely prostrating herself on the ground ever five steps as a dog looks on curiously (it must have taken her hours).

And I think all monks have cell phones... their traditional red robes have pockets for prayer beads, incense, and their Motorolas. Even when all the lights go out (the electricity here is spotty) they still continue to walk around. It's amazing.

By the way, as I write this, the karaoke version of Nothing's Going to Change My Love for You is playing... ahh... karaoke.

Okay, back to present day...

Since Boudhanath, I've been up to a town called Nagarkot where the sunsets and sunrises are supposed to be beautiful. But I got really sick there and I don't remember much except it was very smoggy. I rode the public bus back down to Kathmandu, but it wasn't as much fun as the first time.

Met Elsie from Medical Mercy Canada yesterday, as well as the rest of the group I'll be travelling with. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite the first impression I was hoping to give. Vomiting and diarrhea really takes a lot out of you.

Anyways, I was able to muster enough strength to visit Kanti Children's Hospital. It was quite the eye opener, the conditions the doctors and nurses work in is amazing. And the lab, just a small room with two techs. They really do work miracles there. I'll have a full report later on.

For now, I'm packed and ready to go trekking tomorrow, I hope. We've got a 10 hour bus ride to Jiri, and then start hiking the day after.

Hopefully I'll be able to update somewhere along the road... wish me luck...

There are miracle workers and then there are the hill women of Nepal. I don't know how one woman, with a wood stove and propane burner could make dhal baat (lentil stew, curry, veggies and rice), a veggie omelette, mexican potatoes and a tuna pizza, all within one hour.

Just got back from doing a short circuit around the Annapurna region and I couldn't have been better fed. Oh, and the scenery was pretty spectacular too. Bikram, Andy, Maggie and I set out for a 3 to 4 night hike out of Pokhara. The plan was to head to Tikhedunga and then Ghorapani, but we took a wrong turn somewhere, right at the beginning and we ended up going to a completely different town. So much for having a native Nepali with us...

After walking for 6 hours completely lost, we made it to the town of Gandruk. A major town/village in the region. We got there after dark, so we pretty much walked into a place to stay and booked a night. Well, if anyone ever goes to Gandruk, they should totally stay at the Excellent View Lodge. Not to be confused with the Nice View Lodge, the Mountain View Lodge or the See You Lodge. The food was amazing and the family was very nice. The mother and I would just laugh everytime we passed each other.

Because we came in so late, I had no idea what the town or the surrounding hills looked like.  Well, I don't think I could describe it if I tried. The view from their front garden was spectacular. It was my very first glimpse of the Himalayas and it could not have been more breathtaking...

Unfortunately, because we went the wrong way the first day. Maggie wasn't able to do the one thing she'd come to Nepal for... to see the sunrise on Poon Hill.  It's one of the most popular sites in Nepal.  She had to get back to Hong Kong.  So the next morning, she walked with us a little ways and then headed back to Gandruk and then back to Kathmandu.  Bye, Maggie...

The remaining three of us walked for another 10 hours (holy painful legs) and made it all the way to the town of Ghorapani, home of the famous Poon Hill. We ended up at the Nice View Lodge, again pretty much after dark and headed into the main square for some Dewali festivities. It was heartwarming to see the entire town out to watch the local children perform traditional dances, in front of the German bakery (they had shinamon rolls, chocolate coreation, and apple sturolls).

In the morning, we joined 300 others at 5 am for the 45 minute hike up to Poon Hill.  Imagine a line of headlamps snaking from the town right up to the top of the hill.

Poon Hill...  Peaks, peaks and more peaks. Absolutely spectacular sunrise.

After breakfast at the Nice View Hotel, I said goodbye to Andy and Bik as they headed back to Pokhara and Kathmandu.  By the way, I am addicted to milk tea.  I'm not sure if I have a stomach bug or if I'm suffering from lactose intolerance...  

I continued on alone from Ghorapani towards Tatopani, home of the most frighteningly none-relaxing hot springs.  As usual in Nepal, I quickly hooked up with a group from Slovakia: Fedi, Gabriella and her mother.  We shared lunch and then walked into Tatopani.  Skipped the right-next-to-the-road, rock-blaring hot springs and jumped on a bus back to Pokhara.  The last few days have been amazing, but exhausting.  

First took a jeep (16 passengers!) to Beni (imagine the Hurley Road tims ten)....

...then got to ride on the top of a local bus right into Pokhara (for 4 butt-numbing hours). Actually the ride on the bus was probably one of the coolest things I've ever done.

I'm now in Pokhara just having had the best dhal baat I've ever had... at a Greek restaurant.  Cost: $2.00 with milk tea.

Back to Kathmandu tomorrow to spend the day exploring, then meeting up with Elsie on Friday...

I think driving in Nepal is perhaps the most dangerous occupation in the world. Right up there with shark baiting and chainsaw juggling. Took the 8 hour bus drive to Pokhara today on the luxury bus line. Unfortunately, they overbooked and I ended up sitting up front with the driver. Usually that's cool, but having cars, motorbikes and other buses rushing at you at 60 miles an hour was quite the experience. Drivers in Nepal are either extremely skilled magicians or absolutely crazy.

Last night, amazingly met up with Dean from Vancouver and we had dinner at a cool Israeli restaurant... in Nepal. My meal cost me 235 Rs or about $2.50. He told me that he was paying about $3 a night for his hotel. Makes my $10 a night budget hotel sound like a 5 star resort (it isn't). Anyways, he told me I needed to bargain better. He's off to summit Ama Dablan.

Met up with two more new people on the bus to Pokhara, during one of our many delays. It's Duwari festival right now and we had to stop every few minutes to offer donations at the roadside parade/blockades. Incredible seeing the small villages and homes of the people along the way.

New trekking partners: Andy, Frenchman from Hungary, and Bikram, Nepalese from Singapore. Bik's Nepalese, so he seems to be happy to do all the negotiating for us. Thank goodness. Apparently $10 for a hotel room is way too much.

In Pokhara right now. Very touristy town on the side of quite a pretty lake. Fewa Lake.

Finally off trekking tomorrow, I'm doing the Annapurna Panorama trek. I should be back in Pokhara on Thursday. So I'll write more then...

Made it!

I can't believe I'm here. It's been a crazy whirlwind trip, but I've survived my first day here.

I think I may be the worst bargainer in the world. I'm just a big pushover. 500 Rs? Sure, here you go... More on that later.

Staying at the Hotel Ganesh Himal just west of Thamel, the main tourist district. It is definitely a budget hotel, right down to the peeling wallpaper and the smell eminating from the shower. It's not bad, though, could be worse. And it's $11 a night.

Picked up from the airport last night at 11 pm by the hotel driver, amazing how trusting you are of random men after 48 hours of travel. Was asked for a $20 tip by the airport porter. Nothing like sitting in a back of a dark car, having 5 men stare at you while you rummage through your cash. Gave him a dollar. Got to the hotel after a white knuckle drive through the city - narrow, narrow streets. They apparently overbooked and was moved to the Hotel Lei Lei next door.

Got up this morning at 10:30, and started just walking around, Lonely Planet guidebook in hand. The action in this town is amazing, nothing like back home. People everywhere, with street stalls and shops selling everything imaginable. And the colours and sounds... incredible. LOTS of honking.

I actually bumped into the girl who sat beside me on my flight from Hong Kong. Spent the day with her actually. Turns out she's on her own, and going to Pokhara as well to do the Poon Hill trek, so now I have a partner to go with. Perfect.

We rode the local bus to Pushpatinath, the traditional Nepali burning funeral grounds. Watched as families cremated their relatives... quite something. Pretty sure I was fleeced for about $20 today by the guide at Pushpatinath. Very reminiscent of Slumdog Millionaire and kid at the Taj Mahal. He could have been telling us anything.

Then we took a taxi to Boudhinath, the main Buddhist temple in the city. After the craziness of the Kathmandu streets, it was quite the peaceful sanctuary.

Been a full day. Tired now, can't wait to have a shower. Tomorrow, I'm off to Pokhara, six hour drive away.

Am sitting in Hong Kong airport. Waiting for my final flight to Kathmandu.  Hurray, I'm actually going to get there before I turn 75. Felt a little underdressed in Tokyo. Hiking boots are just not chic...

Bought Jamie new headphones (don't worry, they're really nice, at least the airport guy said so). Everything here is in HK dollars.  Haven't quite figured out the conversion.  Looks like a billion dollars for a book and 2 billion for a coffee.  Yen, HK dollars, and now rupees.  All in 24 hours.

Takashi dropped me off at the airport today at 7 am and I think this airport/airplane air is making me crazy.  

Have to board now.  Plans for tomorrow: Exploring Kathmandu.  Hooking up with Joe, the retired pilot, Dean, a fellow wanderunger from Vancouver, and Kieran, random guy on Internet.  Crossing my fingers that it all works out.       

After literally confirming my flight about an hour before leaving for the airport, I've made it to Narita. 
The first stop in the long haul to Kathmandu. 

Already have three movies under my belt and a broken set of headphones.  Sorry Jamie.  Don't know how I did it... Got it stuck in my remote console thing in the first minute and destroyed them. I'll buy new ones in Hong Kong, I swear.

Stayed at the Narita Airport Hotel.  Run by a nice fellow named Takashi.  For $18, he picked me up at the airport, gave me a futon, and drove me back again.  Not too bad.  Shame I can't stay longer, he's a huge hiker with no one to hike with.  I met another dude from London there and we chatted until I fell asleep in front of them.  I think I lost a whole night of sleep somewhere. 

Just testing out my new blog. Updating from my itouch.

Well, I should be packing...

Well, here I am at work, planning my trip to Nepal and Everest Base Camp...